In this low-fat, low-cholesterol world, where every other news report is about America's obesity epidemic and South Beach refers to a diet, not a hip vacation spot, it takes a lot of nerve to call a restaurant Duckfat.

Mention the cheeky name to friends and co-workers, and reponses are evenly split between people who moan "Mmmm" with a hungry gleam in their eye and people who scrunch up their noses with a high-pitched "Ewww."

The folks behind Duckfat, the new high-end take-out spot on Middle Street, expected both of those reactions to the name, and even disagreed among themselves about whether or not it would work, according to Kristian Brown, the general manager.

"We thought the bold name was kind of a little bit in your face," he said. "It certainly causes a stir, and it causes conversation. And in the end, we were pretty confident that our food was going to be able to stand up to a controversial name like that."

And it does, for the most part. That's no surprise, considering Rob Evans and Nancy Pugh of Hugo's are the owners and everything is homemade, down to the Sassafras root beer and gingerbrew on tap.

With such an eclectic menu, from duck confit paninis to beignets and milkshakes, it's hard to know where to turn first – and how to spend your limited lunchtime dollars sampling items without getting into some strange food combinations. (Duckfat is also open for dinner, and serves beer and wine.)

I decided to try the duck confit salad ($5.50), a mixture of frisee, pumpkin seeds, cranberry vinaigrette and, of course, duck confit. Eating it was like throwing a little party in my mouth, with all the different textures and flavors coming forward and back to introduce themselves.

One of my friends commented that the salad seemed small, and I thought so, too, at first. But there were lucious bits of duck in every forkful, which made it well worth the price and so rich that I couldn't have eaten a bigger portion.

I also tried a bite of my friend's duck confit panini ($8) with peppered boursin cheese and sour cherry chutney. If you're going to Duckfat just to try the duck, get this succulent sandwich.

There is also a spiced duck broth for $4.50, and Belgian fries ($3 and $4.50) that are fried in duck fat.

But Duckfat is not just about duck and fat. Other panini offerings include apple wood smoked bacon with cheese and tomato ($7.50) and a slow-braised pulled pork with apple- mustard compote and muenster cheese ($7.50). Of the eight paninis on the menu, the only one under $5 is a cheese sandwich.

A second friend along for lunch had the smoked turkey panini with gruyere cheese and avocado ($8). That sandwich, and one I ordered on another day, was a bit too greasy for our tastes, and both of us thought it was way overpriced.

The fries come served in a cone, with a slender wooden fork, Belgian style. Both of my friends thought they were overcooked, but they don't like crispy fries. I do, and I thought they were perfect – a little crispy on the outside, but not too crisp, and tender inside. The fries are served with your choice of sauce, from grainy mustard mayo to garlic aioli. I splurged and paid an extra 50 cents for truffle ketchup.

The "Five Dollar Milk Shake" at Duckfat comes in flavors like "Real Tahitian Vanilla Bean," "Intense Espresso" and "Dark German Chocolate." If you're wondering why it's called "The Five Dollar Milk Shake" but actually costs $4, it's a reference to a scene in Quentin Tarantino's film "Pulp Fiction" in which John Travolta and Uma Thurman complain about a high-priced milkshake.

"It turns out to be an excellent milkshake worth five dollars," Brown said. "When we call it that, and then in turn price it for $4, it's just kind of a fun little joke."

That's what the folks behind Duckfat want the place to be – good food, fast, along with a helping of fun. It's not a place you'd go every day, but it's a delightful change from the usual Portland food-to-go scene.

Duckfat
WHERE: 43 Middle St., Portland, 774-8080

HOURS: 11 a.m. to 8 p.m. Monday through Thursday, 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. Friday, noon to 9 p.m. Saturday, noon to 8 p.m. Sunday

CHEAPEST GRUB: "Toast & Jam" for $2. Spread with Mascarpone and grilled on brioche. With choice of homemade jams: black mission fig jam, seasonal apple butter, pear butter, orange marmalade and blueberry jelly

WAIT: About 10 to 15 minutes at a table. Take-out is faster.

PARKING: Yes